A good restaurant never seems to know its place. Good Chinese restaurants often scoot to the Asian-Thai-fusion influence and superior Mexican restaurants often flirt with Southwestern flavors. But Italian, especially in our chain restaurant culture, often gets stuck in the pasta-sauce-pizza trap. As with other cuisines, "Italian" needs to be moved to fit the changing sophistication of American palates.

Franco's Restaurant in Anthem has changed its direction, with a new chef, Steve Enos. Enos arrives with a Massachusetts culinary background and a Portuguese heritage, both influencing his menu creations. Before moving to Anthem several months ago with his 5 and 7 year-old sons, Enos owned several restaurants in the Cape Cod area, and had a consulting business helping new restaurant owners.

Along with owner Franco, Enos is re-vamping the entire Franco's menu, pushing the international borders toward a different expression of what "Italian" can be. They have cut the size of the menu, while offering 4 or 5 dinner features daily. Changing specials should offer Franco's regulars a new dish to try every time they dine. Many of the hallmark pasta items will stay, but the nightly features will include more seafood, chicken, local ingredients and flair.

Arizona is a long way from the ocean, but we still like our seafood. Enos has brought his Cape Cod seafood background into the mix. His "Cozzi con Vongole" combines Mussels and Clams in a Rosemary roasted garlic broth, served over Parmesan Crostinis. The broth poured over the Crostinis infuses the garlic, Mussel and clam flavors into the bread.

Enos has added some artistic flair into the menu items as well. The highlight of "Chicken Tusciano" is not the chicken, stuffed with basil and grilled on a rosemary skewer. It's the beautifully prepared stack of grilled zucchini, summer squash, roasted peppers and fresh buffalo mozzarella, set against a brilliant orange-red pool of what Enos calls "Voodoo Salsa". "A friend of mine from Haiti used to talk about voodoo all the time," says Enos. "I thought the word was pretty cool and wanted to make something with that name." The salsa is a combination of pureed red-pepper and garlic, with spices that don't overpower the rest of the dish.

Lunch is a new adventure at Franco's, with 2-3 specials every day. Enos has plans to offer lettuce wraps, Portobello mushrooms with Prosciutto, grilled vegetables and Fontina cheese, and cucumber dill salad with bay shrimp. They also offer a version "Muffaletta," a Panini with melted provolone, Genoa salami, Sopresatta (an Italian sausage), Prosciutto and Mozzarella.

Many people think that keeping to a low carbohydrate diet means staying clear of Italian restaurants. Not so - Enos will incorporate low-cab entrée's, like Gorgonzola Steak or Baked Atlantic Cod over a bed of Julienne vegetables, in each evening's specials.

Enos doesn't plan on changing the desert menu right away. The restaurant's classic Cannoli, Tiramisu and Spumoni need no improvement. He plans instead to wow dinner guests with the entrée, while Franco shoots from the hip with an improved restaurant environment. Let your taste buds be the judge.