My love is like a cabbage
That's easy cut in two.
The leaves I'll give to others
But the heart I'll keep for you.
Oral poem from Tyrone

Sláinte an bradáin chugat (May you be as healthy as the salmon)
An old Irish Saying

I visited Ireland as a teenager in 1986 with my family. I had a great time (yes, even with my Sony Walkman glued to my ears the entire time, Dad!) experiencing a different culture, enjoying the unadulterated beauty of the countryside, spending time with my relatives, and learning about my ancestors. The one thing I didn't enjoy was the food. Once I got past that cute "Oh, I'm in an Irish pub choking down a tough steak and boiled potatoes" stage, it wasn't enjoyable anymore. During that trip I learned that there had not been much progress in the field of Irish culinary arts since I had visited with my father in 1980.

Since the late eighties, Ireland has become a sort of burgeoning culinary Mecca. The country that made boiled meals and tough steak a national tradition now offers talented chefs and five star restaurants.

Roasted Salmon Wrapped in Bacon
The ancient Irish hero, "Finn MacCool" reportedly gained the gift of knowledge simply from cooking and tasting a salmon!

Fish, and salmon especially, enjoy being part of Ireland's national culinary identity. Understandable, when you take into account the hundreds of miles of breathtaking coastline, thousands of miles of sparkling rivers, and acres of pristine loughs in this beautiful country. At feasts of Gaelic chieftans, salmon, roasted on a spit over an open fire and basted with wine, honey, and herbs was the centerpiece of the many meals.

So, save the corned beef and cabbage for next year, and spring this traditional Irish recipe on your clan!

• 4 salmon fillets, about ½ pound each
• 4 slices of bacon, preferably Irish
• Salt and ground white pepper to taste
• 4 tablespoons canola oil
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
• 1 cup fish stock or clam broth
• 2 teaspoons minced fresh chives
• 2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley
• Juice of ½ lemon
• Fresh chervil sprigs for garnish

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Wrap the salmon fillets with 1 slice of bacon and secure with toothpicks. Season with salt and pepper.

In an ovenproof skillet large enough to hold all four fillets, heat two tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. Place the salmon fillets in the skillet, skin side down, and bake until opaque on the outside but translucent in the center, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a serving plate and lightly cover with aluminum foil to keep warm.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring the stock or broth to a simmer. Discard any cooking liquid from the skillet. In the same skillet, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons canola oil with the 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the stock or broth, chives, parsley, lemon juice and stir up to remove any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Cook until slightly thickened.

To serve, transfer the salmon to 4 warmed plates, spoon some of the sauce over the top, and garnish with fresh chervil.

Irish Potato Cakes
There seems to be a slightly different version of "potato cake" for each culture. In Eastern Europe, there is the pierogi. Potato latkes are part of the Jewish tradition. And the Irish have their "potato cakes." While the main ingredient in each is the same, every version has a different "twist."

Instead of serving boiled potatoes on St. Patrick's Day this year, try out this treasured Irish recipe. It serves as a great side dish for the Roasted Salmon Wrapped in Bacon (above) or as a brunch item.

• 8 ounces boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons warm milk
• 3 tablespoons mixed minced fresh herbs such as tarragon, thyme, or marjoram, or 1 tablespoon dried
• 3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley or 1 tablespoon dried
• ½ tablespoon ground nutmeg
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1 slice bacon, finely chopped
• 2 cabbage leaves, finely chopped
• Flour for dredging
• 1 egg mixed with 2 tablespoons water
• ½ cup dried breadcrumbs for dredging
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• ½ cup whole berry cranberry sauce, warmed (optional)

Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water until tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and mash. Re-cover and return to low heat to dry out potatoes, 2 to 3 minutes more. Remove from heat and add the butter and milk, and stir until smooth. Stir in the herbs, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Let cool and slightly, 5 to 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp. Stir in the cabbage and cook until wilted, 4 to 5 minutes. Add to the potato mixture and blend well.

Shape the potato mixture into 4 evenly sized cakes. Lightly dredge in flour, then coat with the egg mixture, then the breadcrumbs. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil, add the cakes, and cook until browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Serve immediately, or transfer to a baking sheet and keep warm in a 200-degree oven.

To serve as a first course, warm the cranberry sauce in a saucepan over low heat until slightly runny, 3 to 5 minutes. Place one potato cake in the center of each plate, and drizzle with cranberry sauce.

(Recipe in photo prepared by Jaime Palenque of Phantom Caterers 623-551-4826)