For a relaxing week in the sun, only 215 miles and four hours away by car and at prices decidedly cheaper than California, a stay at Puerto Penasco, Mexico - or Rocky Point as it's known to most Arizonans - is the way to go. And, it's certainly going to get even better in the near future as tons of money are poured into making the sleepy Mexican village the next Cancun.
Rocky Point is certainly not everyone's cup of " te ." My husband certainly wasn't enthralled when we visited the dusty little town two years ago. But then, he's not the beach nut that I am. I had gotten so used to walking the beach in Naples , Florida every day when we lived there, that I still need a beach "fix" once in awhile. So I convinced him to reconsider and take me there the week between Christmas and New Year's for a little R&R. After all, what's so bad about staying in a beautiful, luxurious condo overlooking a long, long stretch of white sandy beach and blue-green waters? There are some pretty good restaurants there that serve the freshest seafood dishes and shrimp. And, it's an easy four-hour drive from Phoenix and through the Sonoran Desert where it ends at the waters of the Gulf of California and Puerto Penasco.
From Interstate 17 South, to Interstate 10 West, then South on State Highway 85 at Buckeye, it takes about two hours to a coffee and bathroom stop at Gila Bend where MacDonald's sits conveniently on the crossroads of 85 and Interstate 8. It's important to get Mexican auto insurance and the small U. S. town of Ajo , about 40 miles from Gila Bend, is the place to make the necessary arrangements. There are many insurance companies there and that seems to be the main reason for the town's existence. We called ahead of time to prepay and pick up our policy there.
The last time we had visited Rocky Point, there were only two or three newly-built condos on the stretch of Sandy Beach, one of which we stayed in - the Sonoran Spa. Sandy Beach is the area being developed as part of the plan to create the "new Cancun ." Many Arizonan's have bought these condos, which they rent out or use for themselves. The facilities are run like a hotel, complete with daily maid service. Two years later, there are many more condos that have been built and others being feverishly constructed along the rolling sandy dunes. The colorful buildings are architectural versions of Arabia , Tuscany and Disneyland . This time we stayed at the Sonoran Sea and it, too, features two large pools (one heated), grassy lawns, fountains and hot tubs. The one-bedroom apartment where we camp out for the next seven days is comfortably and beautifully furnished and has a full kitchen, along with a washer and dryer.
The quality of the amenities at these condo/hotels is definitely "five-star," but because these businesses are run from Phoenix and staffed onsite by a bare-bones staff of mostly inexperienced (but very pleasant and eager-to-please) people, the service is only about two stars at best. This is not the United States , after all, and this resort building is so new, that it will take a little more time until the people are trained to be "pro" active, rather than "re" active. But, having said all this, we had a wonderfully relaxing time.
History
Puerto Penasco began life as a small fishing village back in the 1930's. That was also the era of Prohibition in the US , and a fellow by the name of Johnny Stone saw the potential as a vacation spot for thirsty Americans and built the first hotel there. Al Capone and his pals were among his clientele. The tiny port has become one of the largest shrimp producing areas and attracts retirees with its warm sunshine (330 days a year) and laid-back ambiance. John Steinbeck called it "God's Aquarium." And, UNESCO of the United Nations recently declared the Sea of Cortez as "World Heritage" - a place of "outstanding universal value" due to its natural beauty and the presence of more than 695 plant species and 891 fish species.
Fun Activities
Obviously, swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, boating and fishing are huge attractions here on the beautiful Sea of Cortez . For the more adventurous there is parasailing and driving off-road vehicles up and down the sandy dunes of Sandy Beach. For those seeking just plain relaxation, soaking up the sun on lounge chairs by the large pools is the way to go - as well as indulging in eating and shopping.
Restaurants
There are a few small restaurants that had opened in Sandy Beach since the last time we were there that serve pretty decent food - the Adobe inside the Sonoran Sun resort, the Sonoran Grill in the Sonoran Spa, and the Reef at the RV resort. There are also several restaurants in the Old Port area that serve delicious cuisine. The Point is a colorful red and yellow box of a restaurant that sits on a pier over the bay. The downstairs portion of the restaurant is the more formal area and the upstairs, which is surrounded on three sides by a narrow balcony, is more casual. The cuisine served at The Point can be summed up as shrimp and more shrimp. Everything we ate there was delicious - Stuffed Fish, Coconut Shrimp, Shrimp Carlos V and Chicken All Santos . The Portofino a few doors down from the Point, has a large terrace overlooking the water, enclosed by an Italianate-columned balustrade, and served good and hearty Italian specialties, steaks and seafood. Other restaurants that are popular with Americans: the Friendly Dolphin, Lily's, Agave, Blue Marlin, Costa Brava and the Lighthouse, which sits on top of a hill overlooking the Old Port.
Santana's Coffee (their logo of green and black with a picture of Pancho Villa in the middle looks suspiciously like Starbuck's), which serves delicious coffee drinks and refreshments, is located at 17 de Septiembre #7. The café is owned by a former Californian, Santana, and his wife Marla who opened the café almost two years ago after they came to Puerto Penasco and fell in love with the resort. "We thought we'd sell son-cones, or whatever it takes to live and pay the rent," Santana says. "But when my father visited and couldn't find a good cup of coffee, the idea of a coffee shop was born."
There are also many bars and nightclubs for the younger set. Many of them seemed to be on Calle 13 in the town and on the older beach of Playa Hermosa . Sandy Beach had The Reef, located at The Reef RV camp right before Cholla Bay .
Groceries and Pharmacies
Since the last time we were in RP, a large supermarket has opened there - the Super Ley, which makes getting supplies for your apartment much easier. Although, it's not a bad idea to take the groceries and supplies you're used to using from the United States and just shop for the perishable foods and last-minute items. One large, well-stocked pharmacy is called Cosmos 2000 on the main drag through the town - Blvd. Benito Juarez.
Shopping
Most of the shops for souvenirs and Mexican curios are crowded around the streets surrounding the Old Port area. At the end of Zaragoza sits a three-story shop called Curios Wendy, every inch of which - both inside and out - is filled with Mexican crafts. Just up the block from Wendy's is Pablo's, which sells beautifully hand-carved furniture. Standouts among the shops in the Old Port are Galeria Del Mar Bermejo, located just behind the church; Victoria's Hormiga on Benito Juarez at the entrance to the Old Port area, and Galeria de Artes. My absolute favorite place to shop, though, was Mercedes Rusticos on Avenida Alcantar across from the Friendly Dolphin restaurant. Husbands who hate shopping can go right across the street to the Friendly Dolphin for a margarita while their wives indulge their desire for beautiful things and meander slowly through all the rooms. One room leads to another or to hallways and courtyards, all of which are crammed with lovely furniture, candles, flowers, vases, paintings, woven throws, ceramics, tiles, and all sorts of glorious objects. The owner, Mercedes Munoz, certainly knows how to furnish her unique store.
Another area of shopping is a dusty dirt road of three or four blocks of Mexican craft items that is not far from the Sandy Beach area. It has been fondly dubbed the "Cholla Mall," but any resemblance to a stateside mall is a long stretch. However, it's fun to wander and poke around and try your bargaining skills with the vendors. And, if you get homesick for some American-style goodies, you won't have to wait too long. Spring 2006 will see the opening of a shopping mall in Sandy Beach across from the Las Palomas golf resort called Plaza Las Fuentes. In addition to a conference center, Coldstone Creamery, In & Out Diner, and businesses such as a dry cleaner and pharmacy are planned. |
Our means of transportation to the Bird Island was on a scuba-diving expedition run by Lobo del Mar, whose owners deserve a whole article of their own. The boat chartering business was started by patriarch Rupert Buntin Sr. and his wife, Carrol, and there are currently over forty members of their clan that take part in its operations in one way or another. To get the boat that takes you to Bird Island , we had to drive east of RP to a place on the coast called Playa San Jorge. On the grounds there is a compound of individual homes where all the family members live and work. The children are home schooled there and many of them take part in the business by performing Hawaiian dances on their sunset cruises. The older girls - mothers and daughters - perform as belly dancers. The men run the boats and other parts of the operation. It may sound a bit tacky, but the family members we met were all very friendly, funny and intelligent. They all enjoy working and playing with each other and want to stay together even when they move to Hawaii next year. Rupert and Carrol moved to Hawaii for health reasons, so the business - boats and houses and property - has been put up for sale, and if all goes as planned, this fascinating family will pull up stakes and start a new business and lifestyle in the Hawaiian Islands. Visit Lobo del Mar's website at: www.lobodelmar.com.
Hotels
There are many older small hotels in Puerto Penasco, although many of them are not on the beach. Two exceptions are the Plaza Las Glorias and the Playa Beach Resort at Playa Hermosa. In addition to the three Sonoran Spa, Sea and Sun resorts there are many other condo/hotels already built or in the process of completion at Sandy Beach - among them are the Princesa, Casa Blanca Golf Villas, Las Palomas, Esmeralda, Bella Sirena and the Diamond Village .
Residential Areas
Two residential areas that you have to visit, which are so opposite in style to one another and yet fascinating in their own way are Las Conchas, east of the Old Port, and Cholla Bay, west of Sandy Beach. Las Conchas is a private community of spectacular beach homes built by affluent Norteamericanos. Cholla Bay looks a lot like the "beach-baby" shore towns favored by the Spring Break crowd - more casual homes arranged in a hodge-podge style over the sand dunes and curving dirt roads. Of course, with nearby Sandy Beach being developed, Cholla Bay is looking good to investors, too. There aren't any hotels, but a cute bed and breakfast recently opened up there called Casa Monica B&B . Two favorite restaurants the locals enjoy are Xochitl's and JJ's Cantina.
Transportation
If you don't want to drive your own car, there are several shuttle van companies you can try: Rocky Point Shuttles (www.rockypointshuttles.com), Head Out To Rocky Point (www.headouttorockypoint.com), and Kona Shuttle (www.konashuttle.com) - all of which operate out of Phoenix. This past year Westwind Air Service (www.westwindairservice.com) began flights to RP from the Deer Valley Airport, making it easy to take off for a short weekend in RP.
A new coastal highway, (Carretera Costera) will be built along the coast from El Golfo Santa Clara, just northwest of Puerto Penasco to Caborca, a town southeast of the town. The current small airport is being remodeled and a larger brand-new airport is being built just east of the town near the still-developing Mayan Resort. These major improvements are sure to result in even more development along the sandy beaches bordering the Sea of Cortez.
Practicalities
Because RP sits in the "Free Zone" as designated by Mexico , U. S. visitors haven't needed to obtain a visa to cross the border. We were not asked for any ID when we crossed back to the U.S. However, due to heightened border security, the State Department has announced that it will require travelers to have a passport when they return to the United States, beginning January 2008. Check with the State Department if you are unsure: www.state.gov. The border is open from 6:00 am to midnight. You can bring back $400 in souvenirs per person, 1 liter of alcohol and 50 lbs of food per carload for personal use. Check U. S. Customs & Immigration at www.customs.ustreas.gov. Mexican law requires visitors traveling by automobile to their country to have Mexican auto insurance. Most places in RP accept American dollars, so it isn't necessary to change your money into pesos. At the bigger establishments you can use your credit card; however, be aware that most of the smaller businesses accept cash only.
So, will we go back again to Rocky Point - si, si, si! Hasta luego, Puerto Penasco - we shall see you soon. |
